Time of year

End world
No Booking We're British

Choosing a restaurant you want to eat in is difficult enough. I mean it depends on who you're eating with, what time of the year it is, what flavour appeals, what style of cooking your taste buds are demanding. The criteria are endless. But a new breed of middle-class restaurateurs are set on making it even more difficult. I'm talking about the annoying new fashion of restaurants that do not taking bookings.

If you want their cooking, you are meant to turn up on the off chance there is a table available. And if there isn't, be prepared to wait - often on the pavement, until one becomes available. What arrogance, what a lack of understanding about food it demonstrates.

Enjoying a meal isn't just about good food, well cooked and served, it's about anticipation. It's about the occasion. It's about getting up in the morning, thinking about the menu at the restaurant of your choice and starting to decide what you might eat.

It is no good to have gone through this process only to find there is no table. And that they suggest you go to the pub next door and come back in 45 minutes. Or, of course, to another eating place. These restaurants, they probably think of themselves as establishments, are not cheap hamburger joints, they are expensive. How dare they treat us, and the eating experience, in such a cavalier manner. No booking - no customer is my suggestion. After all, its not as if there's a shortage of good places to eat in London these days.